The current flock – Barred Rocks, Australorps, an elderly Buff Cornish and one Australorp/Delaware cross.
Chickens are often the first thing people want when they move to the country — fresh eggs, chicken soup and cute baby birds. And chickens do make good sense on even a small operation. They eat food scraps, supply you with breakfast, make compost, help in pest control and offer entertainment. Although I’ve always raised a few of my own birds, I’ve kept a single flock and periodically ordered new birds. The more I look at what I’m doing the more I really want to raise my own. Ordering chicks from a hatchery means the potential for bringing in disease; shipping chicks uses irreplaceable fossil fuels. Like heirloom vegetables and fruits, what you raise can be tailored to your specific needs and preferences if you raise your own chickens. So, I Have A Plan.
Delaware chicks enjoying dinner.
I have a preference for dual-purpose birds — the sort that lay a reasonable number of eggs but are large enough to make decent meat birds. I would also prefer to breed my own rather than depend on the commercial hatcheries. That preference was strengthened this last year when I ordered some new chickens from a hatchery I’d used before without any problems. I lost 16 of the 25 chicks. Some just keeled over and died for no obvious reason. Several had severe leg deformities and had to be butchered because they couldn’t walk. Others had weak legs, almost all had very crooked toes and one had a badly crossed bill. Chickens of the same age were dramatically different in size, as in twice as large as others in the same group. Those sorts of problems indicate inbreeding — not the kind of thing I want in my chicken flock. I finally gave the surviving chicks away. Although I have and have used an incubator, I would really like to let mama (the avian variety) do the work. So, this year, I’m changing the system so I can raise my own, which means I need to decide on a particular variety of chicken. Making a statement about the “best” choice for a chicken flock is rather like volunteering to be shot at sunrise — everybody has a strong opinion and the messenger may be the one who winds up receiving most of the bullets. The right answer, of course, is that it depends on what you want out of the deal. There are so many different chicken varieties out there that you can find something to suit.
Former flock of Buff Cornish in the chicken tractor with Foghorn the Delaware rooster.
Choices, choices. What kind of chickens do I want? A dual-purpose chicken won’t lay as many eggs as the Leghorn, which is ultimate laying machine. But with three flocks (I’ll explain why later on), I’ll have enough chickens to supply all of our eggs even in the winter months, and lots of extras in peak periods to sell, freeze, feed to the pigs or hard-cook and feed back to the chickens. A dual-purpose chicken won’t grow as fast or be as meaty as the Cornish Cross, the classic meat-only bird butchered at eight weeks that you’ll find in the grocery (which I think is too delicate and prone to health problems, anyway). Some of the dual-purpose heritage breeds, however, grow to a reasonable size by 12-14 weeks, and they often have more flavor than a Cornish Cross, especially if you age them for a few days after butchering and cook them properly. Finally, I want chickens that will go broody and set their own eggs, which will hopefully allow me to retire the incubator. Broody chickens quit laying while setting and rearing chicks, but again, if I have enough chickens, that shouldn’t be an issue. And none of the dual-purpose heritage breeds are 100 percent broody, so some will keep right on laying while Sister Sue is setting on the nest.
Here are my criteria for the new chickens: • I want chickens that will lay at least 200 eggs a year per hen. • I would prefer white chickens, as they have light pinfeathers. White-feathered birds are an advantage for butchering, because their pinfeathers don’t show up black against the pale skin. Most people don’t like the look of a black-speckled fryer, which means cleaning the dark-feathered chickens is a much more labor-intensive process. But this is a trait that takes a back seat to the other qualities I’m looking for. • Yellow skin is an advantage in a laying flock. A chicken bleaches out as she lays, because she deposits skin pigment in her egg yolks. It’s much easier to see bleaching in a yellow-skinned hen. • Chickens that mature early will lay sooner and grow better for butchering, so I want fast growers. • I want a breed in which at least half the hens will set. • Since the kids are involved in the chicken-keeping, I don’t want birds that are highly aggressive; an attacking rooster can cause considerable damage to a child. • I know that hatchery catalogs, like seed catalogs, tend to go for salesmanship rather than truth; I’m inclined to go with chickens I either have personal experience with or know from discussions with those I considered to be reputable breeders. By the way, if you’re looking for a quick reference in choosing a chicken breed or breeds, do an Internet search for . It’s available in a variety of places on the web. John Henderson is the social sciences librarian at Ithaca College in New York. He’s also a chicken person who has raised many of the heritage breeds. The college used to maintain a copy of the chart, but I couldn’t find one when I searched the website. It’s available from other sources, though. Henderson did a good job researching most of the heritage breeds and can comment on many from personal experience. To be continued next week…
Baby Chickens Facts in
Cora, West Virginia
We have many Rare Chicken Breeds for sale in Cora West Virginia,
including Sussex Chickens, Welsummer Chickens, Turken Chickens and more.
Be sure to check out the Bargain Specials, as you can combine different
egg layers in smaller amounts and buy as an assortment. Cora
West Virginia also has poultry equipment for sale, game chickens for sale in
Cora West Virginia, bantams for sale, ducks for sale, geese for sale,
turkeys for sale, guinea for sale, peafowl for sale, pheasant for sale,
chukar partridge for sale, bobwhite for sale, many different breeds of
baby chicks for sale in Cora WV.
Baby Chickens For Sale in
Cora, West Virginia
Thumbing through a baby chickens for sale in Cora West Virginia
catalog is a yearly traditions in many houses. My kids and I eagerly await
the Murray McMurray Hatchery catalog. We love looking at all the cool and
different chicken breeds available. Catalogs are free so head on over to
their site and request one if you are interested.
Typically hatcheries online offer both standard breeds
and bantams. Bantams are fun hardy little chickens, they lay tiny eggs
that kids especially love collecting. Bantams typically weigh less than 2
pounds when full grown. Just like ordering anything online there are pros
and cons to ordering baby chicks online. Pros of buying baby chicks in
Cora West Virginia * Big Selection - If you are wanting a large
variety of different chicken breeds and egg colors, you will find the best
selection at an online hatchery. * Both Bantams and full sized chickens
available * You get to choose what sex you want. If you want a mixture of
both male and female then choosing a "straight run" will save you money
and you will get a mixture of male and female chicks. You can also choose
all males or all females too. * Weekly specials. Hatcheries have sales on
chicks, you are likely to get a good deal if you are flexible with the
breeds you are wanting. Cons of buying baby chicks in Cora
West Virginia * Order early to get the best selection. Certain breeds sell
out fast, sometimes as early as 6 months in advance of shipping! If you
are wanting a certain breed it's best to order your chicks in the fall
before their orders sell out.
Baby Chicks Mail Order in
Cora, West Virginia
Quantity - you must order a certain number of chicks. Typically hatcheries
will require you buy a minimum of 25 chicks at a time. The number is
necessary for the chicks survival during shipping. All 25 chicks are put
in one small box without heat. They are crowded in the box and produce
enough body heat to arrive in good shape. * The wait - If you choose to
buy chicks from a feed store you will have them the same day but if you
choose to go with a hatchery you have to wait until they are ready to ship
and then wait for the chicks to arrive. Ordering baby chicks online in
Cora West Virginia is easy and has always been a very pleasant
experience of me. It can be a little frustrating waiting for the chicks
but it's so worth the wait. When the post office calls and you hear all
those little "cheeps" or "chirps" in the background you'll know the wait
was worth it! How to Care for your new baby chickens in Cora,
West Virginia Baby chicks are extremely
cute as well as
tough to stand up to,
yet it's best to plan for their
arrival prior to you obtain them. Prepare initially
by compiling not just the
correct materials, however
additionally the proper
knowledge to care for
them. Raising baby chicks is reasonably
basic, you merely have to supply them with the following: A tidy and warm and comfortable
habitat Plenty of food as well
as water Interest as well as
love Environment Your habitat could be a basic box, fish tank,
feline provider, or guinea
pig cage. Line it with old towels as well as
blankets (without loose
strings!) to begin, and also after a
couple of weeks make use of straw over newspaper.
Keep in mind: Avoid utilizing only
paper or various other slipper
surfaces-- or your chicks legs can grow
malformed. You additionally need
something to provide food as well as
water in, such as a chicken feeder and water
recipe from the feed shop, or a pickle container
cover for food and also a pet dog bird water dispenser from a pet shop. Additionally, as the chicks get
older you could introduce a perch
right into the habitat to obtain them
trained on perching. Warmth To
keep your chicks warm you have to
supply them with a heat source.
This can be as easy as a 100 watt
light bulb in a reflective clamp design light from a
hardware shop, or an infrared reptile warmth
bulb likewise function very
well (my
referral). Chicks require this
warmth 24/7 up until their downy fluff is
replaced with feathers (which could occupy to two months). The freshly
hatched out require a temperature
in between 90 as well as 100 degrees,
and weekly this could
be lowered by
around 5 levels approximately. The warmth resource need to be on merely one side of the cage
to enable chicks a variety of
temperatures. The chicks are your best
thermometer- if they are concealing in the
opposite edge of your warmth
light, you need to
reduce the temperature. If
they are smothering each various other under the
warmth (not merely snuggling),
you need to add some heat.
Home cleaning
Sanitation is vital as
well as it keeps your chicks healthy and
balanced. Make certain to change
the bed linens
usually and also
constantly provide clean
food and water Food and water.
Chicks grow really quickly
which calls for a lot of tidy
food as well as water. Provide
enough in any way times and also inspect
frequently to avoid dehydrated and also
hungry chicks. Chick food is different than adult chicken food, and also it is available in both medicated and non-medicated ranges. Feed chick food for the
first 2 months, after that
switch over to a raiser food (~ 17 %
healthy protein) for another 2 months,
and then to a slightly
reduced healthy protein feed or a level feed
(if you have levels). Dirt Some chicks like to obtain a running start on taking
dirt baths, while others won't use up that task till they are
older. If you have the area in your chick
enclosure, present a tray of sand or
filth for them to shower in.
Focus and also love There are a
few advantages to spending time with your chicks. First of all, they will certainly probably bond with you and
not flee as grownups. Second, if you
analyze your chicks daily and
see their actions, you can
capture illness or other issues previously. Keep an
eye out for hissing, hopping, or
other unhealthy
indications. Be sure to
also consider
their poop, as diarrhea can cause matted feathers as well
as clogged cloaca.
Finally, it is very
important to look out
for social issues, such as the
smallest chick obtaining picked
on. Vacant nest disorder So your
chicks are currently totally feathered
and its time for them to leave the
safety of your residence
and also relocate outside right into a cage. Have a look at our
area on chicken cages to find out
more
about cages as well as
correct cage environments.
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