The current flock – Barred Rocks, Australorps, an elderly Buff Cornish and one Australorp/Delaware cross.
Chickens are often the first thing people want when they move to the country — fresh eggs, chicken soup and cute baby birds. And chickens do make good sense on even a small operation. They eat food scraps, supply you with breakfast, make compost, help in pest control and offer entertainment. Although I’ve always raised a few of my own birds, I’ve kept a single flock and periodically ordered new birds. The more I look at what I’m doing the more I really want to raise my own. Ordering chicks from a hatchery means the potential for bringing in disease; shipping chicks uses irreplaceable fossil fuels. Like heirloom vegetables and fruits, what you raise can be tailored to your specific needs and preferences if you raise your own chickens. So, I Have A Plan.
Delaware chicks enjoying dinner.
I have a preference for dual-purpose birds — the sort that lay a reasonable number of eggs but are large enough to make decent meat birds. I would also prefer to breed my own rather than depend on the commercial hatcheries. That preference was strengthened this last year when I ordered some new chickens from a hatchery I’d used before without any problems. I lost 16 of the 25 chicks. Some just keeled over and died for no obvious reason. Several had severe leg deformities and had to be butchered because they couldn’t walk. Others had weak legs, almost all had very crooked toes and one had a badly crossed bill. Chickens of the same age were dramatically different in size, as in twice as large as others in the same group. Those sorts of problems indicate inbreeding — not the kind of thing I want in my chicken flock. I finally gave the surviving chicks away. Although I have and have used an incubator, I would really like to let mama (the avian variety) do the work. So, this year, I’m changing the system so I can raise my own, which means I need to decide on a particular variety of chicken. Making a statement about the “best” choice for a chicken flock is rather like volunteering to be shot at sunrise — everybody has a strong opinion and the messenger may be the one who winds up receiving most of the bullets. The right answer, of course, is that it depends on what you want out of the deal. There are so many different chicken varieties out there that you can find something to suit.
Former flock of Buff Cornish in the chicken tractor with Foghorn the Delaware rooster.
Choices, choices. What kind of chickens do I want? A dual-purpose chicken won’t lay as many eggs as the Leghorn, which is ultimate laying machine. But with three flocks (I’ll explain why later on), I’ll have enough chickens to supply all of our eggs even in the winter months, and lots of extras in peak periods to sell, freeze, feed to the pigs or hard-cook and feed back to the chickens. A dual-purpose chicken won’t grow as fast or be as meaty as the Cornish Cross, the classic meat-only bird butchered at eight weeks that you’ll find in the grocery (which I think is too delicate and prone to health problems, anyway). Some of the dual-purpose heritage breeds, however, grow to a reasonable size by 12-14 weeks, and they often have more flavor than a Cornish Cross, especially if you age them for a few days after butchering and cook them properly. Finally, I want chickens that will go broody and set their own eggs, which will hopefully allow me to retire the incubator. Broody chickens quit laying while setting and rearing chicks, but again, if I have enough chickens, that shouldn’t be an issue. And none of the dual-purpose heritage breeds are 100 percent broody, so some will keep right on laying while Sister Sue is setting on the nest.
Here are my criteria for the new chickens: • I want chickens that will lay at least 200 eggs a year per hen. • I would prefer white chickens, as they have light pinfeathers. White-feathered birds are an advantage for butchering, because their pinfeathers don’t show up black against the pale skin. Most people don’t like the look of a black-speckled fryer, which means cleaning the dark-feathered chickens is a much more labor-intensive process. But this is a trait that takes a back seat to the other qualities I’m looking for. • Yellow skin is an advantage in a laying flock. A chicken bleaches out as she lays, because she deposits skin pigment in her egg yolks. It’s much easier to see bleaching in a yellow-skinned hen. • Chickens that mature early will lay sooner and grow better for butchering, so I want fast growers. • I want a breed in which at least half the hens will set. • Since the kids are involved in the chicken-keeping, I don’t want birds that are highly aggressive; an attacking rooster can cause considerable damage to a child. • I know that hatchery catalogs, like seed catalogs, tend to go for salesmanship rather than truth; I’m inclined to go with chickens I either have personal experience with or know from discussions with those I considered to be reputable breeders. By the way, if you’re looking for a quick reference in choosing a chicken breed or breeds, do an Internet search for . It’s available in a variety of places on the web. John Henderson is the social sciences librarian at Ithaca College in New York. He’s also a chicken person who has raised many of the heritage breeds. The college used to maintain a copy of the chart, but I couldn’t find one when I searched the website. It’s available from other sources, though. Henderson did a good job researching most of the heritage breeds and can comment on many from personal experience. To be continued next week…
Baby
Chickens How To Care in
Elk Horn, Kentucky
We have many Rare Chicken Breeds for sale in Elk Horn Kentucky,
including Sussex Chickens, Welsummer Chickens, Turken Chickens and more.
Be sure to check out the Bargain Specials, as you can combine different
egg layers in smaller amounts and buy as an assortment. Elk Horn
Kentucky also has poultry equipment for sale, game chickens for sale in
Elk Horn Kentucky, bantams for sale, ducks for sale, geese for sale,
turkeys for sale, guinea for sale, peafowl for sale, pheasant for sale,
chukar partridge for sale, bobwhite for sale, many different breeds of
baby chicks for sale in Elk Horn KY.
Baby Chicks
Outside With Heat Lamp in
Elk Horn, Kentucky
Thumbing through a baby chickens for sale in Elk Horn Kentucky
catalog is a yearly traditions in many houses. My kids and I eagerly await
the Murray McMurray Hatchery catalog. We love looking at all the cool and
different chicken breeds available. Catalogs are free so head on over to
their site and request one if you are interested.
Typically hatcheries online offer both standard breeds
and bantams. Bantams are fun hardy little chickens, they lay tiny eggs
that kids especially love collecting. Bantams typically weigh less than 2
pounds when full grown. Just like ordering anything online there are pros
and cons to ordering baby chicks online. Pros of buying baby chicks in
Elk Horn Kentucky * Big Selection - If you are wanting a large
variety of different chicken breeds and egg colors, you will find the best
selection at an online hatchery. * Both Bantams and full sized chickens
available * You get to choose what sex you want. If you want a mixture of
both male and female then choosing a "straight run" will save you money
and you will get a mixture of male and female chicks. You can also choose
all males or all females too. * Weekly specials. Hatcheries have sales on
chicks, you are likely to get a good deal if you are flexible with the
breeds you are wanting. Cons of buying baby chicks in Elk Horn
Kentucky * Order early to get the best selection. Certain breeds sell
out fast, sometimes as early as 6 months in advance of shipping! If you
are wanting a certain breed it's best to order your chicks in the fall
before their orders sell out.
Baby Chickens Eggs in
Elk Horn, Kentucky
Quantity - you must order a certain number of chicks. Typically hatcheries
will require you buy a minimum of 25 chicks at a time. The number is
necessary for the chicks survival during shipping. All 25 chicks are put
in one small box without heat. They are crowded in the box and produce
enough body heat to arrive in good shape. * The wait - If you choose to
buy chicks from a feed store you will have them the same day but if you
choose to go with a hatchery you have to wait until they are ready to ship
and then wait for the chicks to arrive. Ordering baby chicks online in
Elk Horn Kentucky is easy and has always been a very pleasant
experience of me. It can be a little frustrating waiting for the chicks
but it's so worth the wait. When the post office calls and you hear all
those little "cheeps" or "chirps" in the background you'll know the wait
was worth it! How to Care for your new baby chickens in Elk Horn,
Kentucky Baby chicks are really
charming and also
difficult to stand up to,
but it's finest to prepare for their
arrival before you get them. Prepare first
by gathering not only the
appropriate materials, but
additionally the correct
expertise to take care of
them. Raising baby chicks is fairly
easy, you just should give them with the following: A
clean as well as warm
habitat Lots of food and also water Attention as well as
love Habitat Your habitat could be a straightforward box, aquarium,
cat service provider, or guinea
porker cage. Line it with old towels and also
coverings (with no loosened
strings!) to begin, as well as after a
couple of weeks use straw over paper.
Keep in mind: Avoid using just
paper or other slipper
surface areas-- or your chicks legs can expand
malformed. You also require
something to dish out food and also
water in, such as a chicken feeder as well as water
dish from the feed shop, or a pickle jar
cover for food as well as a family
pet bird water dispenser from a family pet store. Likewise, as the chicks get
older you could introduce a perch
into the habitat to get them
trained on setting down. Heat To
maintain your chicks heat you have to
offer them with a warmth resource.
This can be as easy as a 100 watt
light bulb in a reflective clamp design lamp from a
hardware store, or an infrared reptile heat
bulb also function effectively (my
referral). Chicks need this
heat 24/7 up until their downy fluff is
replaced with plumes (which could occupy to two months). The recently
hatched out require a temperature level
in between 90 and also 100 levels,
as well as each week this could
be reduced by
around 5 degrees or
so. The heat resource should get on just one side of the cage
to permit chicks an array of
temperature levels. The chicks are your best
thermometer- if they are hiding in the
opposite corner of your warmth
light, you need to
minimize the temperature. If
they are smothering each various other under the
heat (not merely curling up),
you should include some warmth.
Home cleaning
Tidiness is vital and it keeps your chicks healthy. Make sure to change
the bedding
frequently as well as
constantly supply tidy
food and also water Food and water.
Chicks expand quite fast
which needs lots of tidy
food and also water. Supply
sufficient at all times and also examine
frequently to avoid dehydrated and
starving chicks. Chick food is different than grown-up chicken food, and it comes
in both medicated and non-medicated selections. Feed chick food for the
initial 2 months, then
switch to a grower food (~ 17 %
healthy protein) for an additional 2 months,
then to a somewhat
lower healthy protein feed or a layer feed
(if you have layers). Dirt Some chicks want
to get a running start on taking
filth baths, while others will not use up that task until they are
older. If you have the area in your chick
unit, present a tray of sand or
dirt for them to bathe in.
Focus and also love There are a couple of advantages to spending time with your chicks. Firstly, they will more than likely bond with you and also
not run away as adults. Second, if you
examine your chicks daily and also
see their habits, you could
catch disease or other troubles earlier. Watch out for hissing, limping, or
other harmful
indicators. Make sure to
likewise check out
their poop, as diarrhea could lead
to matted plumes and obstructed cloaca.
Lastly, it is necessary to keep an eye out for social issues, such as the
tiniest chick getting badgered. Vacant nest disorder So your
chicks are currently completely feathered
and also its time for them to leave the
safety and security of your home
and relocate outside into a cage. Check out our
part on chicken coops to learn more
regarding coops as well as
correct cage environments.
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