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Chicken Coops for Sale in Indian Head, Maryland

Chicken Coops for Sale in Indian Head, Maryland

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What goes into designing a chicken coop?  It depends on your needs.  When I built our first chicken coop it had to be a design that would be big enough to house all of our chickens but small enough to not overwhelm our back yard. What do I mean by overwhelm? Well, when you walk out into someone's back yard for the first time you notice certain things.  Perhaps it is their lucious green garden.  Maybe a well pruned and maintained fruit tree or a child's play set.  It is the thing that immediately catches your eye.  You are drawn to it for better or worse.  If its for better, then it adds to the decor in a positive manner.  If it is for worse, like an unsightly, run down, misshapen chicken coop, then it becomes overwhelming. I wanted to be able to walk into my back yard and like what I saw.  Something that didn't make me say, "oh wow hey, that is one ugly something." I put a lot of time, energy and effort into building the first chicken coop. So it is with a heavy heart that I must tear it down.  However, I am encouraged by the thought that when we get to where we are going, I will build something greater in it's place! For now I must meet an immediate need and it must fit all our criteria: 1.  Must be small and accommodate 2 to 4 chickens. 2.  Easy set up and take down. 3.  Must double as a transport carrier. 4.  Must have a large access so it can be cleaned easily.  (If it is going in the back of our car at some point as a carrier, then it will need to be cleaned often.) I combined elements of several different designs and added a few ideas of my own and this is what I came up with.

Materials:

8 - 1x3 Furring Strips (Furing strip boards are much cheaper than regular 1x3's.  In my area they run about $1.50 for an 8' board.) 8 - 1x4 Furring Strips 2 to 4 sets of 2 to 4 of your choice You may be wondering why so many sets of hinges and locking mechanisms.  I left 2 doors off the final build.  The front door and one of the smaller side doors.  Both are optional depending on the end users needs. I incorporated two smaller doors on one side of the coop.  The front one is for ventilation.  It can be opened during the day to allow for more air flow.  It can then be closed at night to make it more predator proof.   Also, one large door on the other side of the coop that would be used for cleaning. A hinged door could be added to the front of the coop and the whole thing could be buttoned up at night for protection of your backyard flock.  I would recommend an additional ventilation hole at the top just under the overhang to aid in air circulation if you went that route.  If all the doors were incorporated into the final build you would need 4 sets of hinges and 4 locking mechanisms.

Cut List:

 

Back Panel

6 – 1x3’s @ 22-1/2”

Front Door Frame

1 – 1x3's @ 12-1/2”
4 – 1x3’s @ 15”

Large Door Side Frame

2 – 1x3’s @ 30”
2 – 1x3’ @ 10”

Side frame with two small doors

2 – 1x3’s @ 30”
3 – 1x3’s @ 10”

Corner Pieces

4 – 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” x 15” (2x4’s ripped in half)    

 Floor

 1 – 25 x 32-1/2” 
I'm giving the total floor dimensions on this one.  What I did was edge glued 7 - 1x4's @ 32-1/2".  That gives you a 24-1/2" wide piece which is a half inch short of your required width.  I then added a 1x3 @ 32-1/2" and that extends the width to 27".  I then attached the floor to the carcass of the coop leaving all the overhang on one side.  Then I took a flush trim bit in my router and trimmed the excess off the overhang.  I now had a perfectly fitted floor with no discrepancy. Often times this is the procedure I follow when I want something to fit perfectly without having to be perfect.  If you choose to just cut a piece of plywood to the end measurements and screw it in place; no one would think less of you.

 

Roof

11 – 1x4's @ 27”

 

Roof Truss

2 – 1x4 @ 32-1/2”
I measured to the center of a piece of 1x4 cut to length.  Then measured 1-1/4" to each side of that mark.  From those two marks I measured 3/4" down from the top of the board.  Finally, from those two marks I drew a line to the bottom corners.

Vent Door

2 – 1x3’s @ 9-3/4”
2 – 1x3’s @ 5-1/4”
This is the optional vent door that is not depicted in the video.  I choose to leave this door off my final build.  I placed chicken wire on the inside of the coop.  If you built this door you would still want to place chicken wire on the inside of the coop and not on the door.   I would not recommend enclosing this door completely unless you had an alternate means of ventilation.  I thought about leaving a small window in the back panel but felt it was easier to integrate into one of the sides.  Of course you could always do both.

Nest Box Door

2 – 1x3’s @ 11-3/4”
2 – 2-3/8” x 11-3/4”

Large Side Door

2 – 2-3/8” x 24-3/4”
2 – 1x3’s @ 24-3/4”

 

Nest Box

1 – 3” x 12”
1 – 2” x 12”
2 – 12” x 12” 
This nest box is placed just inside the nest box door on the inside.  I find it is fine to just lay it in place.  Chickens like a little privacy to lay their eggs.  So the side panels are a must in my opinion.

 

Final Thoughts:

 

Most of the following information can probably be filed under the "no brainer" category for most.  Of course if you don't know it then it isn't a "no brainer" so here goes:
1.  As is the case with many small and mobile chicken coop designs, sacrifices have to be made.  Usually in the form of security.  This one is no different. 
2.  This chicken coop is designed with an urban setting in mind.  
3.  Predators such as a fox, coyote or even dogs can dig underneath the run area.  You could try to combat this by extending the wire completely underneath the base and run area.  Usually the wire is dug into the ground 6 to 12 inches but then the coop ceases to be mobile.
4.  Generally speaking chickens are only inside the coop at night and when laying eggs.  With that in mind I estimate the size of this coop can accommodate up to 4 chickens.  However, the run area depicted in the video is WAY to small for four chickens.  We let our chickens run the entire backyard during the day and are only enclosed in the run area when we are away.  If you intended to keep 4 chickens enclosed in a run I would recommend doubling if not tripling the run area you see in the video.  Chickens get bored just like you and me.  If that happens and their space is to small, they will start to peck each other, sometimes to death.  This is why their beaks are often times cut off in commercial operations.  
5.  Be kind to your chickens and they will be kind to you.  If you care for them, they will care for you and your family.  They will provide not just nutritious eggs but also quality entertainment.  
Much better than whatever junk is on cable TV these days.
Happy Homesteading!!

Chicken coops for sale in Indian Head Maryland can be found in agricultural newspapers and community newspapers. The coops are designed for housing for chickens in a safe and secure environment. They generally consist of a small building or large box that is then sectioned off to smaller boxes where the chickens go to roost (or sleep). Chicken coops are a must for raising chickens. Indian Head Maryland chicken coops are commonly constructed from wood products. They are not very stable buildings and provide only minimal protection from the elements. Now chicken houses used for large production facilities are a entirely different structure, they are huge and can hold up to 10000 chickens. The coops are typically used for backyard operations, or small family farms. They vary in size depending on the number of residents they house. chicken-coops-in-Indian Head-MDFinding chicken coops for sale in Indian Head Maryland is probably not one of the easiest of items to find. There are manufacturers of chicken houses and coops that sell them out right and Indian Head Maryland farm supply stores that they can also be purchased through, but generally speaking it will take some effort to find a chicken coop for sale in Indian Head Maryland, especially if your location is not a typically rural location. In rural locations that are much more abundant and easily had. Chicken Coops for sale in Indian Head MD

Chicken Coop Roost Ideas in Indian Head, Maryland

A good place to start any search is the internet. Simply plugging in the phrase "chicken coops for sale in Indian Head Maryland" into any one of the numerous search engines and a wealth of information will pop up. This information will provide links to other websites that will be informative and will provide the right direction for finding Indian Head Maryland chicken coops. What to look for when buying a chicken coop in Indian Head, Maryland With the substantial rise in poultry keeping there has been a similarly huge increase in the range of chicken materiel for sale. Chicken real estate is a situation in factor. It's also a timeless instance of the excellent old bandwagon being jumped on as various prospective fowl housing experts market a selection of cottage claiming to be the optimal remedy to your chicken housing needs. Commonly the cost looks attractive, the house looks attractive, hell even the clean-cut household standing there feeding the chickens look appealing. Undoubtedly they understand a top quality chicken house when they see one? There are many inexpensive and also nasty coops swamping the marketplace. I recognize this as I've checked a number of them in the field, and seen a ewe run directly through one when the feed container appeared. The result was only an expensive heap of firewood and a little group of bemused as well as now homeless bantams. Chickens for sale in Indian Head MD

Chicken Coop Roost Ideas in Indian Head, Maryland

Usually these standardized designs are built of fast grown hardwood - come the initial drop of rain they swell, leaving you either defending a door that won't close, or tearing the door furnishings off in a vain effort to launch the squawking residents. The initial warm day implies the timber dries and also splits, the felt roofing bubbles and also boils, and also come nightfall the chickens choose not to enter. This is not due to their dissatisfaction at the decrease of their when desirable property yet since the hovel is now a haven for, and also most likely crawling with, the fowl caretaker's nemesis, red mite. Add on that it claimed on the blurb that it would certainly suit 4 huge hens when that equipping density was based upon the Circle Line at 5pm on a Friday, and exactly what are you entrusted? A number of hinges and some kindling. A good coop for thee to 4 birds should cost you in the region of ₤ 300 though this could depend upon whether you choose for a free standing house or one with a run connected. Presuming you are varying your birds in a big room and the pop opening door allows sufficient for the type you maintain, then the main needs of real estate come down to 3 factors which will certainly define the number of birds your house will certainly hold; perches, nest boxes as well as air flow. A lot of types of chicken will perch when they go to roost in the evening, this perch should ideally be 5-8cm large with smoothed off sides so the foot rests pleasantly on it. The perch must be more than the nest box entrance as chickens will likewise naturally try to find the highest point to perch. A perch less than that will have the birds roosting in the nest box over night (which is incidentally when they generate the most poo) causing dirtied eggs the following day. They shouldn't however be so high off the floor of the house that leg injuries can take place when the bird gets down in the early morning. Chickens require concerning 20cm of perch each (in small breeds this is certainly much less), plus if greater than one perch is mounted in the house they need to be greater than 30cm apart. They will certainly hunker up with their next-door neighbors however are not that crazy about roosting with a beak in the bloomers of the bird ahead. Ideally the house must have a the very least one nest box for each three birds as well as these ought to be off the ground as well as in the darkest area of your house. The house needs to have sufficient air flow: without it then condensation will develop every night, even in the coldest of weather. Realize, air flow works on the principle of cozy air leaving via a high void drawing cooler air in from a lower gap - it's not a set of openings on other wall surfaces of the house and at the very same degree, this is what's called a draft. If you have a house with a run connected then the points above are still real, yet you ought to also think about the run dimension. The EU optimum lawful equipping density for a free array bird is (and also let's encounter it, one of the inspirations for maintaining some chickens in your home is possibly enhanced or far better welfare) 2,500 birds per hectare, that's optimal one bird per 4m settled. Take a close check out a few of the deal houses - it could well be the house has the right perches, appropriate ventilation and sufficient nest boxes for a reasonable number of birds, but will each of the chickens have anything more than an A4 sized item of ground to spend the day on? Therefore as the stating goes, "you get just what you pay for". You may think you've got hold of a deal, yet you as well as your flock might rue the day you did. Acquisition the best house and also it will certainly last for a few years, if not longer provided the appropriate therapy. In the end your poultry and also your fowl keeping encounter will certainly be considerably the much better for it.
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