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Chicken Coops for Sale in Freeland, Maryland

Chicken Coops for Sale in Freeland, Maryland

Convert your doghouse to a chicken coop

A doghouse without a dog

I had a dog once. He was a Husky Malamute given to me as a gift (one of the most cherished I ever received) by a friend who rescued him from the SPCA. When I got him he was 18 months old. I named him Gus.

He was a good friend for over a decade but in June 2008 at the ripe old age (for a Husky) of 13 I had to put him down because he had developed a brain tumor, had gone blind from glaucoma as a secondary effect, and was starting to have trouble breathing. I was amazed how quickly the whole thing progressed. I miss him lots, but the rational side of me recognizes that the timing was good. My “home business” had just outgrown my home and we were about to move to an office location. I was going to become a commuter… sigh. I think the transition from a life with people always around to a life of solitude would have been torture for my blind old friend. Though I miss him I’m thankful that he never had to experience that.

Recently I forced myself to consider disposing of Gus’s doghouse, recognizing that it would likely be a long time before I owned another dog.

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A doghouse re-purposed

I was half way through posting the doghouse for free on Craigslist when I had a novel idea. I’d been considering getting a few chickens for some time. I had even been mulling over various chicken coop designs. I thought, “Why not convert the doghouse into a chicken coop?” And so I did.

The images below show what the doghouse looked like before. These are actually the pictures I took when I was about to post it on Craigslist. I didn’t build it myself. It was here when I moved in. I did enlarge the doorway since Gus wouldn’t go inside otherwise.

To convert it to a chicken coop was relatively easy. I screwed four 2×4 posts to the four corners to elevate the doghouse about 20″ off the ground. The elevated doghouse would provide both shade and shelter from rain for chickens either inside it or on the ground below it. I attached wire mesh around the posts creating a perimeter around the area under the doghouse. I added a door with hinges and latch to cover the original open doorway. The door will be used by me to access the nesting boxes to remove the eggs and to clean out the hen house and add more bedding as needed. I added some wire mesh to cover an opening above the door which provides ventilation. In the winter, I may cover this to reduce drafts.

I cut a hole in the floor and added a ramp so that chickens at ground level would be able to climb up into the doghouse. I made 1/8″ deep perpendicular cuts with a circular saw every inch along the length of the ramp for grip. The ramp is also hinged. Using an easily accessible draw string, I can raise the ramp to close off access between the two levels (useful for keeping the chickens where I want them either to catch them, or to make modifications to sections of the coop).

I built a couple nesting boxes that hook onto the walls inside the doghouse. I sized them to the available space. They are big enough that two chickens can fit in each nesting box. Not knowing much about chickens I wasn’t sure if two chickens would nest in the same box, but I figured I could add a divider later if necessary. It turned out not to be necessary.

The nesting boxes are removable for easy cleaning and for easy conversion back to a dog house if desired at some point in the future.

The new residents… three’s company.

I searched Craigslist for “chickens richmond” and found a hobby farm within a half hour drive with a flock of a hundred birds or so. I purchased three chickens for $12 each. One was a Barred Rock (probably not pure bred). The other two were Rhode Island Red (also probably not pure bred). I’m pretty sure I got some of the worst birds in the flock. I would have preferred all Barred Rock if they had them, but the one I got was the only one they had left. It appeared to have a superfluous toe on each foot growing out of its ankle about a half inch above its other toes. It also had an extra something-or-other growing out of one of its feet that sort of resembled a toe but not quite. While I was carrying it back to the cage that I’d brought with me, the owner of the flock selected a Rhode Island Red which he probably wanted to get rid of. It seemed healthy enough, but was molting and had lost many feathers around its neck so it didn’t look too pretty. “What the heck”, I figured, “I don’t know anything about chickens, so I might as well just see what happens.” My friend Torbin, who I had brought along for the adventure, was amusing himself watching the show. He made a point of selecting the last chicken which was easily the nicest of the three.

The drive home was uneventful. Apparently chickens are great in a cars. They don’t drool or try to stick their heads out the window or anything. Once home I installed them in the converted doghouse and waited patiently for them to discover the hole in the floor and wander down to ground level where I had placed some food and water. After two hours of waiting I gave up and showed them the way by holding each one in turn upside down by its legs and lowering it through the opening, releasing it in the lower section. They spent the rest of the day down there pecking around, eating bugs and grain, and I figured they’d never find their way back up, but I checked on them just after sun-down and they had all figured it out by themselves and were sleeping peacefully in their nesting boxes. I chose to interpret this as a sign of their approval of my coop design.

In order from left to right in the image above, we named them:

  • Ginger – she’s the pretty one
  • General Tso (or The General) – she rules with an iron beak
  • Barbarella Q (or Barbie for short)

Based on their names, you might have guessed that we’re not opposed to making a meal of these birds at some point, but primarily we’re interested in their eggs.

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A chicken run

Though the size of the coop as is would technically be sufficient space for 3 chickens (much more than they would get in an industrial farming operation), it’s still small enough that it would get pretty messy and require constant cleaning. Therefore I fenced an area around the coop to provide a chicken run. I had several sections of picket fence I’d brought with me when I moved here from my previous residence. They served the purpose of fencing in the chicken run reasonably well. I was a little worried the chickens would be able to squeeze between the pickets but that hasn’t been an issue so far. The run also surrounds our compost bin which you can see at the rightmost edge of the photo. I figured this would be convenient since we could let the chickens give our table scraps a once over, and because we would be composting the chicken poop and soiled bedding anyway. I cut an opening in the wire mesh at the base of the doghouse to allow access to the run. Another piece of wire mesh (which my lovely assistant, Jenna, is holding in the photo below) was attached over the opening so the chickens could be sealed in the coop if desired.

A chicken feeder

At first we made do with a simple dish for feeding (Gus’s old dog dish, actually). However, chickens have a tendency to be pretty messy when they’re eating. Much of the feed from the dish ended up on the ground where the chickens would scratch away at it but not eat it. The dish also required daily refilling. There are commercially available chicken feeders, but I had so far managed to get by with only re-purposed materials and felt obliged to continue in that effort. The solution, although obvious in hindsight, didn’t occur to me for a few days. We had a bird feeder that was built by a friend of mine as a Christmas gift a couple years ago. We’re not really “bird people” so it had sat empty since its initial load of bird seed was depleted. It was a relatively simple matter to relocate it to the chicken coop. I installed it on a vertical metal pipe that I just hammered into the ground to an appropriate depth so that the feed would be dispensed at chicken height. The center part of the roof is removable to add more feed. It’s double sided. One side we use for chicken feed (a 20kg bag costs about $10). The other side we use for finely crushed egg shells and sand (chickens need grit and calcium). So far it has worked very well, holding enough feed for a week or so with no noticeable accumulation of feed on the ground. The chickens also eat bugs, worms, and spiders (and who knows what else) that they find around their yard, and food scraps from our kitchen (so far bread crumbs and apple cores are their favourites).

A chicken waterer

Currently we just use a plastic ice cream bucket filled with water. It works well except for two problems. First, it kills the grass underneath it. Second, the chickens have a tendency to tip it over when it gets close to empty. I plan to replace it with a hanging waterer at some point, but it’s a relatively low priority. When I do make a better waterer, I’ll be sure to take a picture and update this page.

Eggs

General Tso and Ginger didn’t lay at all for the first couple weeks. Barbie laid an egg every couple days for the first two weeks and then stopped. We think she’s going into molt. Chickens molt once a year, losing many of their feathers and growing new ones. During this period they don’t lay eggs. General Tso was already molting when we got her so we didn’t expect her to lay but after the first couple weeks she started laying daily. Ginger was a pullet (a young hen that hasn’t started laying yet) when we got her, but after the first couple weeks she also started laying daily. So currently w’re getting 2 eggs a day and we expect the average to go up to around 2.5 or more once Barbie starts laying again.

In the image above the three eggs on the left are from General Tso. The three on the right are from Ginger. Ginger and General Tso are both Rhode Island Reds. The lighter colored egg at the bottom is from Barbie, the Barred Rock.

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Don’t call the chicken police

In Richmond where I live, bylaws prohibit residential homeowners from keeping chickens unless their property is over 2000 m^2 (half an acre) in size. Luckily my back yard borders on so with their permission I set up the coop on their property. So don’t any of you go calling the chicken police on me ;-).

Though it is not legal where I live, the practice of keeping chickens on residential property is gaining more acceptance every year, even in very urban areas like Vancouver (right next door to Richmond), so it may be legal where you live. Check your city bylaws to be certain. If it’s not legal where you live, the worst that’s likely to happen if you get “caught” is that you’ll have to give up your flock. If you get along well with your neighbours and they’re OK with you having chickens (my neighbours were happy about it)  then you might consider trying it anyway. I promise not to call the chicken police on you.

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Chicken coops for sale in Freeland Maryland can be found in agricultural newspapers and community newspapers. The coops are designed for housing for chickens in a safe and secure environment. They generally consist of a small building or large box that is then sectioned off to smaller boxes where the chickens go to roost (or sleep). Chicken coops are a must for raising chickens. Freeland Maryland chicken coops are commonly constructed from wood products. They are not very stable buildings and provide only minimal protection from the elements. Now chicken houses used for large production facilities are a entirely different structure, they are huge and can hold up to 10000 chickens. The coops are typically used for backyard operations, or small family farms. They vary in size depending on the number of residents they house. chicken-coops-in-Freeland-MDFinding chicken coops for sale in Freeland Maryland is probably not one of the easiest of items to find. There are manufacturers of chicken houses and coops that sell them out right and Freeland Maryland farm supply stores that they can also be purchased through, but generally speaking it will take some effort to find a chicken coop for sale in Freeland Maryland, especially if your location is not a typically rural location. In rural locations that are much more abundant and easily had. Chicken Coops for sale in Freeland MD

Chicken Coop Run Plans in Freeland, Maryland

A good place to start any search is the internet. Simply plugging in the phrase "chicken coops for sale in Freeland Maryland" into any one of the numerous search engines and a wealth of information will pop up. This information will provide links to other websites that will be informative and will provide the right direction for finding Freeland Maryland chicken coops. What to look for when buying a chicken coop in Freeland, Maryland With the substantial increase in poultry maintaining there has actually been an equally big rise in the range of fowl stuff for sale. Fowl housing is an instance in factor. It's also a classic instance of the great old bandwagon being jumped on as various potential chicken real estate experts pitch a selection of cottage asserting to be the excellent option to your chicken housing needs. Frequently the rate looks desirable, your house looks appealing, heck also the clean-cut family standing there feeding the chickens look attractive. Surely they know a top quality chicken house when they see one? There are numerous inexpensive as well as awful coops swamping the marketplace. I know this as I've examined a number of them in the field, and seen a ewe run directly via one when the feed pail showed up. The result was only a costly pile of firewood and a tiny group of bemused and also currently homeless bantams. Chickens for sale in Freeland MD

Chicken Coop You Can Walk In in Freeland, Maryland

Usually these standardized models are created of rapid grown hardwood - come the initial decline of rain they swell, leaving you either defending a doorway that won't close, or tearing the door furnishings off in a vain effort to release the squawking inhabitants. The initial warm and comfortable day indicates the hardwood dries out and fractures, the really felt roof covering bubbles as well as boils, and come nightfall the hens refuse to go in. This is not as a result of their dissatisfaction at the decrease of their once eye-catching commercial property yet since the hovel is currently a sanctuary for, and also most likely abounding, the chicken caretaker's nemesis, red mite. Add that it said on the blurb that it would certainly fit four huge hens when that equipping thickness was based on the Circle Line at 5pm on a Friday, and also what are you left with? A number of joints and also some kindling. A suitable coop for thee to four birds must cost you around ₤ 300 though this can rely on whether you elect for a complimentary standing house or one with a run connected. Thinking you are ranging your birds in a big area and the pop hole door is big sufficient for the breed you keep, after that the main requirements of real estate come down to three points which will certainly define the variety of birds your house will hold; perches, nest boxes as well as ventilation. Many breeds of chicken will perch when they go to roost in the evening, this perch needs to ideally be 5-8cm broad with smoothed off sides so the foot sits comfortably on it. The perch should be above the nest box entry as chickens will also normally search for the highest point to perch. A perch lower than that will certainly have the birds roosting in the nest box overnight (which is incidentally when they generate the most poo) causing dirtied eggs the following day. They shouldn't nonetheless be so high off the flooring of your house that leg injuries could take place when the bird comes down in the morning. Chickens need about 20cm of perch each (in little breeds this is certainly much less), plus if greater than one perch is mounted in the house they must be greater than 30cm apart. They will certainly hunker up with their next-door neighbors however are not that crazy about roosting with a beak in the bloomers of the bird in front. Ideally your home must have a least one nest box for every three birds as well as these need to be off the ground and in the darkest location of your home. Your house must have adequate air flow: without it after that condensation will certainly build up every evening, even in the coldest of weather. Be aware, air flow works with the principle of cozy air leaving through a high void attracting cooler air in from a lower space - it's not a collection of openings on opposite wall surfaces of the house and also at the very same degree, this is what's referred to as a draught. If you have a house with a run attached then the factors above are still true, yet you need to also think about the run dimension. The EU optimum legal stocking thickness for a totally free range bird is (as well as let's encounter it, one of the inspirations for keeping some chickens in the house is potentially boosted or far better well-being) 2,500 birds each hectare, that's optimal one bird each 4m squared. Take a close take a look at a few of the bargain residences - it could well be the house has the right perches, appropriate ventilation and also adequate nest boxes for a sensible number of birds, yet will each of the chickens have anything more than an A4 sized piece of ground to invest the day on? Therefore as the saying goes, "you get exactly what you spend for". You might assume you've got hold of a deal, however you and also your flock can rue the day you did. Acquisition the appropriate house and also it will certainly last for a couple of decades, if not longer provided the right therapy. Eventually your poultry and also your poultry keeping encounter will be much the better for it.
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